Paris Chronicles- Food, Cuisines and Importance of Rice

Every culture has an obsession of some kind with food. And everyone believes they are the most passionate foodies.

In my family we discuss what we shall eat for lunch while we are having breakfast, and which restaurant will have dinner in, while we are eating lunch. We reminisce about meals we have had in different places- sometimes across continents, debate incessantly about which place has the best biryani and maintain a historic record about the specialty dishes of every aunt in the family.

THE LIST

Thus it was no surprise that my cousin Heena had prepared a thorough and long list of the must- eat places in Paris. Some were the usual suspects e.g. pierre herme macaroons which were waiting for me in her fridge, Frenchie wine bar where we went in my first evening in Paris and had the most amazing ham. It was also the first time I had foie gras. Have never been a fan, and to be honest am still not. But it is one of the must-try French foods that I could not get around refusing.

A SELF-CONFESSED BREAD LOVER

And of course I have been eating croissants EVERYDAY. I LOVE bread. Like really love it. And what better place than France to gorge on every kind of bread imaginable. My cousin Kamal and I have this theory that Sindhis eat bread in everything- toast bread, bread pakora (I introduced it to Sanil and he was quiet taken up with it), sel bread (white bread cooked in onions, garlic, tomato and Indian masalas- its the best thing ever), bread and butter pudding- I know it's not an Indian dessert but hugely popular in the sindhi community for some reason. So there has been a bread overload, not that I am complaining. 

WALKING AND DISCOVERING

On Saturday, we spent the first hour after we woke up, talking through our various options- not of places to visit. But of places to eat, before and after which we could potentially visit places too.

And as we walked around, I realized if it weren't for Heena I would be lost- not literally, actually that too, as unlike me, she can reads maps, which is handy to say the least- I would be lost from a food point of view, as every place in Paris looks so nice. Every bistro, every cafe, every restaurant, every roadside cart looks like it serves the best food there is. But thanks to Heenz we knew exactly where we needed to go.

And I have discovered since that in Paris you can only eat at places which have a long queues. Those are the only ones who deserve your patronage. If they are empty, I just felt sorry for them, but was not brave enough to step inside. Why waste calories on half decent food?

ITALIAN JOB

I had pizza cravings, so we walked for miles- yes really miles- to reach Le Soliel de Naples which came highly recommended by Heena's friend, and had the most awesome pizza. And great antipasti too. The waiter asked us where we were from, and when Heena said India, he replied in French that no wonder you both have lovely smiles. And it was followed by the two words I always dread when talking to foreigners about India. 'Shahrukh Khan'. Really?! In Paris, in an Italian restaurant, we have to hear that name. 

I have been listening to French podcast trying to learn basic French like greetings, etc. I should have learnt French for 'I don't like Shahrukh Khan' too. But I really did not think I would ever need it. Then the chef and the waiter told us how much they loved 'cinema Indienne' which was pretty flattering. And right before we left they repeated the same thing, this time trying to do an Indian dance step :)

COFFEE ANYONE?

Now I had been told this, but I found it tough to believe. But now I know for a fact- coffee in Paris SUCKS. Big time. We went to one coffee place that was run by an Aussie- had to be- as it served pretty nice coffee. But nowhere close to the Aussie cafes in Singapore. So disappointing! 

MORE MEALS

For Saturday dinner we took a picnic to the park near Eiffel Tower and sat on the grass while watching the beautiful Bastille Day fireworks display. We sipped wine, had cheese and crackers and polished off the remaining pierre herme macaroons.

For Sunday breakfast  Heenz took me to one of her favorite places 'Le loir dans la théière' which literally means The Mouse in the Teacup. Inspired by Alice in Wonderland was an eclectic place where we had a great Parisien breakfast sans nice coffee of course.

We then walked around the Marais and I saw tons of falafel places and it smelled so good! So once it started raining I had to have the warm falafel. But we did not have it at the place which had a queue that snaked across the street with an average waiting time of 35 minutes. But instead went to 'world's best falafel which was crowded- as that's a mark of a good place-' and it was pretty great falafel.

After walking around, we rested at a park for a while and then walked to near the Notre Dame to have the must-have ice-cream at Berthillon. On Heena's recommendation I had the salted butter caramel flavor instead of my usually chocolate. And it was divine! And of course in Paris you are not allowed to taste flavors, you just have to buy them!

And in Paris you cannot ask for 'ta pau' or 'parcel' either. Seriously! I have paid for the food and if I can't finish it, why cant I take it away!? But you cant It's bad etiquette and severely frowned upon. 

THE RELEVANCE OF DAY 3

Now as much as I love bread, and want to naturally try French food in France, and love pizzas and falafels...after 3 days, I need Asian food! 

Actually I need Indian food, but I did not want to be overtly fussy. So I told Heena, even if I could not have Indian, I had to have RICE. I can't believe how the French can survive without rice in their diet. They have no idea what they are missing!!

I made Heena do intensive research and we finally found a Chinese restaurant called Tour de L'Orient- not very innovative when it comes to the name- but it was open on Sunday was walking distance from home and was pretty crowded.

I ate fried rice, sweet and sour chicken and awesome fish which was covered in red chillies. Satisfaction!!

Heena was v amused and has been telling everyone how only I can come to Paris and eat Chinese food. But sorry all. You can take a girl out of Asia, but you cannot take Asia out of a girl. I need rice. Plain and simple. Or fried.

I was writing this post on my way to Nice. And have a list of restaurant reccos from Heena. I will be fine for a few days with that treasured list, but then by the time day 3 is coming to an end, I will need to go hunt for rice. 

When I was walking towards my hotel, you would not believe what I saw? 'Mother India' and  'A Roy Thai'. So no issues getting my rice fix when I need it!

And once I am in Madrid next week,the very first meal I will ask my chachi to make for me is dal-chawal...and aloo tikki :)

Paris Chronicles- asking for directions

I watched an old Sex and the city episode on the flight, where Charlotte is explaining to the girls how everything happens for a reason. Which is so true! I did not get on the BA flight so that I could have a fabulous flight on SQ.

Great food- as I always ask for Indian vegetarian even though I eat meat, I could have hot upma, sambar and vada for breakfast. Soul food! And watch good movies*- though I expect a better selection. And I had the whole row to myself so I could stretch out the sleep very comfortably. Could not have asked for a better long haul flight.

I was very impressed with CDG airport in Paris. No immigration forms to fill, no queues, immigration checks happened in in less than a minute- which is even faster than Changi. And completely unexpected. But then real life took over and baggage claim took over 40 mins. I knew it.! No airport on this planet (or even alien lands) is more efficient than Changi.

My cousin gave me great instruction about the bus and it was a very smooth and only a 10€ ride.

And then armed with a google map print out I set to locate my sisters place, which should have been a 10 minute walk, but I took nearly 30 mins as I kept walking in circles and asking English speaking people for directions.

So...I don't want to add to the female stereotype, but well, when it comes to map reading, I am one of them. I rely on 2 ways to get around-

1) get lost and finally find one route to get to your destination. And then NEVER EVER change your route

2) ASK for directions. I do it shamelessly all the time. Tip- in Bombay panwallas Are the best direction providers. It used to be watchmen but since that business got commercialized, they are just bunch of dummies who have no clue what the next building is called. And in Paris it is the newspaper vendors on street corners, who don't speak English but when I smile sweetly says 's'il vous plait', point at my google map print out and finally end with an even bigger smile and 'merci beaucoup', it's all good!

Another way to give direction in cities is to go the 'brand way' which hence worth will be called the 'Seema way' to give directions. E.g. If my cousin would have told me 'after you get off from the bus stop, look out for the Apple store at the other end of the street, walk to it, turn right at Zara and then walk till you come across H&M, turn left and you will find Uniqlo and voila! I would be able to find my way in a jiffy.

Side bar- iPad is super annoying when it comes to typing Hindi or French words, it keeps bloody Auto-correcting. So if you come across any words that make no sense, blame auto correct.

Also reason you can't see pictures is that iPad does not allow uploading pictures on blogspot. Will need to find an app. Pain in the neck!

And yes, Chinese tourists are rude in Paris too. They don't reserve that for Singapore alone. I have a feeling I will find the same with most Indian tourists also. Hopefully I won't have to find out.

Finally I reached 13 Rue Therese, struggled with my luggage to the top of the steps only to find more winding steps, and finally reached an adorable and beautiful apartment. Now would it not have been wonderful to see what it looked like? But sadly I can't show it to you here :(

Heena had left sweet post-it's in her lovely handwriting to let me know where everything was. And she had prepared lunch. Fabulous mozzarella, basil, cherry tomato baguette, salad and my welcome pressie- box of macaroons!I resisted the urge to eat them all. And with great self restraint only had 2...and then 1 more.

Lovely meal, warm shower and a cozy bed.

It was simply perfect, until I was fast asleep, I felt something on my bed. OMG! It was the landlady's cat! On my bed! And it was Friday the 13th which I noticed when I changed the time on my phone in the morning, that just freaked me out only more.

A girl came up to take the cat and she did not seem French but I did not want to be presumptuous about anything so politely I asked her name and as soon as she opened her mouth I knew she was the Filipina house help. We chatted like old friends and she said how she has many friends in Singapore. It was at the tip of my tongue to ask if she knew Rose, but then I thought better of it. Of all things i was surprised to find in Paris a Filipina house help still ranks the highest. Second is Ikea. Don't know why but I felt Parisienne's will be too stylish for Ikea so it does not exist in Paris. I was wrong.

It was a rainy evening, but my first one in Paris so I did not mind. Was lovely walking on the Pont de Neuf, looking at the glorious Eiffel Tower gleaming amongst the clouds and seeing the Lourve by night.

Ate French food, drank lovely French wine...

And while we walked back home, I was shivering and walking so slowly as I was terrified of slipping on the wet footpath, a stylishly dressed man approached us and asked "are you two together?" followed by "do you have a condom?". Heena managed to keep a straight face and politely reply no, while I just giggled uncontrobally.

That ended my first day in Paris.

Let's see what adventures await us on Bastille Day today! Heena just mentioned a firemens ball. Now that sounds interesting!

Au revoir!

* watched Vicky Donor. Was hilarious!! Anu Kapoor was superb. As was Dolly Auntie. Too funny!

Paris Chronicles- Let the drama begin!

Ok so here is the deal. I am a drama magnet. Hardly anything happens in my life that is not fraught with drama. Normal, simple, basic tasks become dramatic with me. I have been told its because I tend to exaggerate and some even go to the extent of saying that I enjoy it.

I dont think that's true. It's just that drama seeks me out.

So here is how my Paris trip unfolds.

I am super organised to the point of being rather anal about everything. I make to-do lists, I pack 2 weeks in advance, every little task or meeting is scheduled in my handy Blackberry, I have check lists for everything. So I have been plannig my Paris trip for months. Coordinating leave schedules, researching (which basically means emailing my cousin Heena multiple emails in a day), shopping, tring to lose weight so I can gorge on crossaints and macaroons in Paris, and the usual travel must-dos like tickets, visas etc.

So naturally come yesterday, everything was in order. Or so I thought. My friend Pam sweetly drove me to the airport. I happily checked in at the British Airways counter and even took a chance to ask for Business class upgrade. The check-in officer kept looking at my passport and talking to his colleague. Finally he looked up and said 'madam you have a type C Schengen visa which does not allow for transit in London'. It took me couple of minutes to understand what he was saying. I fervently explained that I was not visiting London, was not even getting out of Heathrow airport, so I should not need a visa. He very patiently explained that even to TRANSIT in London, a visa is needed. My heart stopped. Actually.

He took me to the BA counter where another woman explained the exact same thing to me. It was then I realised- I was not boarding this flight tonight!

The lady was very helpful and asked me to go to the Air France counter and buy a direct flight to Paris. And later I could cancel my BA ticket with my travel agent for a $200 fee.

The Air France guy was very helpful too and offered me a ticket on a flight leaving in an hour. While doing all this I was on the phone with my brother who was trying to check if I could book a Krisflyer miles ticket.

Ultimately we decided it would be best I go back home and then decide the coarse of action in the morning.

So I called Rose asking her to come down and help me with my bags. If she had big plans to go partying that night, those were sure ruined. And then I went over to my friend and neighbour Pam's place to give her a shock and explain my unique predicament.

I was rather proud of myself that despite all the drama I did not lose my cool or breakdown into tears. I was a pretty good sport about it. Pat on the back!

I went to sleep in my faithful bed, faithful as it pretty much ensures a lovely sleep. And woke up next morning refreshed and went to visit my travel agent.

The women there was extremely helpful too, and she applied for a refund of my BA ticket which I should receive when I am back from my holiday. And booked me on the fabulous and reliable SQ. By 10 am it was all sorted and the whole day stretched in front of me till my midnight flight.

I decided to make most of my extra day in Singapore. I went to see a friend I had not seen in awhile and it did not seem right to leave Sinagpore without this meeting. Then met another friend for lunch and we ate a French cafe- ok it claims to be French and serves pretty good baguette and coffee.

Then I came home and watch Mad Men (they were discussing fee vs. commission, seriously? Was fee based remenuration a thing in the 60s?). Sorry I digress, but it did throw me off a little.

After which I went and watched The Amazing Spidermam. Andrew Garfield was superb!

Spent sometime by the pool and surprised few others by being there.

And ultimately left for the airport. There was a big accident on ECP- really horrid one with a truck, a car and 2 motorbikes. And finally when I reached the SQ counter I got a trainee staff who took 20 mins to check me in, not because there was any problem, but only because she was probably doing this for the first time. But everytime she turned to ask her supervisor anything, I held my breath. After an excruciating length of time she gave me my boarding pass and I was on my way to immigration.

Now sitting at the lounge and typing this post, am wondering how many more dramas are there in store for me in the next few weeks when I travel across 2 countries and 4 cities.

Well I for one can't wait to find out. After all, a simple life is so not me :)

Life is a beach...

...and all the people merely swimmers

Some swim against the tide, some go with the flow and others merely wet their toes in the ocean.

I simply love the beach. Everything about it- the sand, the sea, the waves, the sun, the deck chairs, the breeze...

The first time

I first realized how much I loved beaches when I was onboard the Rajdhani Express from Bombay to Delhi. I think I was about 9 or 10 years old. I told my dad that in Delhi I wanted to go to the 'Juhu beach'. One of uncles laughed and replied, "Delhi does not have beaches!". I felt miserable, not as much for me, but for the people of Delhi who could not spend lazy Sunday mornings on a beach, or go for an evening walk on the sea shore.

I was a pretty good student and geography was one of my favorite subjects. So I did know that all areas are not coastal, and there are many cities and towns in the interiors which are not by the sea. So even though my mind knew, my heart just felt so grateful that I lived in Bombay and from my bedroom I could see the sun set into the Arabian sea every evening.

Bombay's best kept secret...Silver Beach

Silver beach also known as Godrej beach is a 7 min walk from my house in Bombay. It's one end of 'Juhu beach' which till date is not as commercialized. And in the 80's when I was growing up, it was even more secluded and almost pristine.

It was where you could learn to ride a horse (no kidding. The 'Janbaaz' scene where Dimple is riding a horse and looking stunning is shot there). Families came for picnics, kids swam in the ocean, serious joggers went about the daily exercise routine and old uncles played crickets. It was where couples held hands and gazed into each others eyes as the sun set in the background. Bombay does have the most beautiful sunsets. As the sun goes down, the sky turns a burnt-orngey-pink and it's one of the most amazing sights. Even today when I am visiting Bombay, at least one visit to Silver Beach is a must. It's become a ritual for Sanil too-who loves beaches almost as much as I do. And I love him even more for it.


Happy childhood memories

When I was a child one of my fondest memories are of dad taking my cousins and me swimming in the sea. Swimming in the ocean is something else! The thrill of being swept away by the waves is just so much fun! Of course now I only sit by the sand and remember those childhood days as I would not even dream of entering the polluted waters of Juhu beach- such a shame!

When I was slightly older, around 13 or 14, a bunch of us girls from my building started going for morning walks to Silver Beach during the summer holidays. My friend Anubha used to visit from Jaipur every summer and a few of us used to wake up early in the morning and head out to the beach for a walk. It was never for exercising- we checked out cute guys, we gossiped about people from the building and chatted about everything under the sun. Happy happy times!!

I spent the first 5 years of my life Las Pal Mas in Canary Islands, Spain, where I was born. Have been a beach bum since I was a baby!

Bombay to Goa

One of most memorable beach holidays was in Goa in 1992. I went there with my parents, brothers and my aunt. It the first time parents were happy to leave us alone and we went cycling, exploring eating places, swimming in the pool.

The next time I visited Goa I was much older. It was a trip with my MBA classmates. This was after all of us had got jobs and were waiting to graduate. Fab times with lots of drama and laughter.

I have not visited Goa since that trip in 1997, and keep hearing it has changed a lot. Have promised Sanil to take him there soon.

Beach havens in Southeast Asia

One of the best things of living in Singapore is there are fantastic beach resorts so close by. From Phuket to Langkawi and Bali to Boracay- I have taken at least one beach holiday every year. And it never gets old.


I started writing this post on a small sheet of paper when I was in Boracay (Philippines) in July last year. I went there with a colleague of mine after our workshop in Manila. It was a silver sandy beach, one of the best ones I have been to in Asia. Not touristy like Phuket or Bali- a lot more pristine and quiet. The boutique hotel had the most excellent service with 'beach butlers' at your every beck and call- no exaggeration. My beach butler negotiated with the boatman for the sail boat ride, re-scheduled my spa appointment as it clashed with the sailing, delivered one-for-one mojitos on the sail boat for my friend and me...I did not resort to getting him to clean my sunglasses or remove sand from my slippers like the hotel brochure said I could.



Sanil and I had beautiful holidays in Phuket and Bali where we would spend the whole day in the pool and by the beach. Sanil can play in the sand for hours since he was little. Perfect time for mama to read a book and simply chill.

I end this post also in Phuket where I spent a day on a luxury yacht. I LOVE boats!! Second only to hats, which I also love. And if I can spend an afternoon on a yacht with my hat and a glass of wine, while enjoying the sea breeze...there could be nothing better!

Beach Wish List...

Mauritius, Maldives and Mexico...I see a hammock, a book, sunset and myself- thin enough to wear a 2 piece bikini ;) power of positive visualization...it will happen!

P.s. spent my morning on the stunning beach in Nice! It is such a different experience from Asia. This was a pebble beach...takes getting used to. V different feel from sandy beaches. The water is much cooler, but as always there is nothing more exhilarating than a swim in the ocean. And with relics of bodies here, I don't actually feel half as bad! In Asia I feel like covering myself in a kaftan to hide the...well politely put...curves, but really put its flab. Here you can feel more Katrina Kaif, and less Vidya Balam :)

You know you have done something right in your job when

1) there are as many tears as smiles when you are leaving

2) when your farewell drinks/lunches/ coffees start 2 weeks before your last day and continue till the last minute

3) when what you have taught is not only remembered but cherished

4) when you come across many worried expressions that read "now who will do all the work?!"

5) when clients wish you success...and mean it

6) when bosses give you their blessing to move on

7) when peers feel like they are losing a partner in crime

8) when juniors say they are losing a mentor

9) when this more laughter and no sniggering (at least none that you can hear)

10) and when you know that you met people as colleagues and are leaving them as friends

Bye bye my Ogilvy-UL team. I can't believe I wont be there anymore. It's been a crazy fun ride with many ups....and yes some downs, like every exciting ride does.

No more gossip sessions, no more working on decks till 2 mins before the presentation (and continuing making amends in the taxi), no more balcony (no) smoking breaks, no more random chats at each others desks....and no more aunty Jenny's coffee :(

But the world is small and Singapore even more so. So I shall see you all for Friday evening drinks, mid-week lunches and in the lovely world of social media.

I have to sign off now as I have been receiving complaints that my farewell notes made many cry...so before your eyes get misty and iPad screens get wet...bye-bye and stay in touch. I will miss you so so so much!

A small tribute to Gulzar saab

Kaafi choti thi main, jab ‘choti si kahani’ suna tha

Tape recprder hote they us zamane mein

Aur ‘rewind’ button bahut istamal hota tha

1988 ka saal tha, aur Aamir Khan ne meri zindagi mein kadam rakha

Lekin tab bhi…aur ab bhi… ‘papa kehte hain’ se zyada achcha

‘mera kuch samaan’ lagta tha

 

Filmein jo thi meri padaish ke pehlein ki

Lekin choo jaati mukhe kuch aise

Jaise, mujhse salah karke kahani sajayi ho

1973 ki ‘Aandhi, 1982 mein ‘Angoor’

Ek ne aise rula diya, dooji kabhi sakte nahin bhool

Bambai mein ghar khojne ki takleef

Sirf ‘Do deewane shahar mein’ aur Gulzarji hi shabdon mein utar sakte

‘Tum he ho na ho, mujhko to, itna yakeen hai’ jaise bol

Jo ek dil ki kashmakash ko bayaan karte hain

Unke siwa aur kaun likh sakta hai?

Umar thi dus, jab ‘tujhse naaraz nahin zindagi’

Aur us bachche ki masoom aakhon ne mujhe chua tha

‘Dil toh bachcha hai ji’..27 saal kyon na guzarein ho?

 

Kis ne socha tha ki ‘chaddi aur phool’,

aur ‘beedi’ aur ‘jigar’ ek hi vakaya mein rehkar

Itne achche lag saktein hain?

Tab samundar ki leheron ka shor hota tha

Aur kuch kuch traffic ki awaaz

Mere kamre mein jhoole pe behetkar

Sunti thi main Gulzar saab ke saaz

Tere bina zindagi se shikwa toh zaroor hoti

Kyonki meri zindagi Gulzarji ke bina kuch kum hoti

I AM A MOTHER

I live to give, I breathe to love

I rule with a smile, I cast fear by silence

I care with the heart, I teach with the mind

I AM A MOTHER

My instincts are razor sharp, my intentions as pure as the rivers

My speeches are long, my voice louder than thunder

My hugs are tight, my kisses much too frequent

I AM A MOTHER

I find short cuts, while still walking the extra mile

I play, I get played

I am a sounding board, I am the voice of reason

I AM A MOTHER

I question, I probe, I demand, I insist

I relent, I agree, I accede, I succumb

I fight, I persevere, I succeed and yes...I fail

I AM A MOTHER

I laugh aloud, I cry quietly, alone

I give wholeheartedly, I seldom take

I feed the body, I nourish the soul

I AM A MOTHER

I desire to be noticed, I enjoy the gratitude

I love spontaneous hugs and big grins

I do have a life beyond you, but you are still at the centre of it all

I AM A MOTHER

I grow old and take on new roles

You grow older and vigorously seek new ones

I see you thrive, I watch you flourish

Even if it’s not in front of my eyes

I AM A MOTHER

Yes I grow old, but I never age.

I AM ALWAYS A MOTHER